Rhondda Valley, South Wales (4. Memorial to Ferndale’s miners, Greenwood Park)

By the time Emily lived here (1910-14), coal mining had peaked. In 1913 almost 10 million tons of coal was extracted across the whole of the Rhondda Valley. Underneath our feet is a huge warren of tunnels that extend throughout the coal basin. In Ferndale alone three large collieries employed a total of 5,660 men. Plus there were a number of medium-sized collieries that each employed over 1,000 men, as well as smaller concerns.  The collieries operated 24 hours a day, every day. During her walks from her house, at this point Emily would have seen the workings of an entire industrial community. Along the valley floor were collieries, winding gear, chimneys and waste tips. There was noise from steam engines and machinery, the grating of coal screens and the hammering of smithies. Pithead hooters announced the change of shifts and there the sound of hobnail boots filled the streets. This was a busy, noisy, industrial place. There was also a road and rail network, plus electric trams, and street traders with their horses and carts. Shops, chapels, pubs, schools, working men’s institutes, libraries and theatres were all important parts of commercial, social and community life.  These sights and sounds exist for us now only as memories of a people long gone. A great deal that we see in the valley today is the result of regeneration. After the mines closed in the 1980s, surface colliery sites were demolished and the land reclaimed.  The playing fields here were the site of one of Ferndale’s collieries and its waste tip. In other places these former colliery sites contain light industrial estates or other landscaped community areas. Directions From the memorial, follow the tarmac road up the slope. At the top, turn right onto the main road and cross the bridges over the river and the former railway line. After the second bridge look to the left for some steps (which cut off the road’s hairpin bend). At the top of the steps turn left onto Commercial Street. At the next junction turn sharply right into Blaenllechau Road. There is no pavement past the first two houses so take care. Stop where the pavement begins outside the third house on the left (Number 6). Look across the road at the sign for downhill traffic.